Diana Vreeland was the Queen Bee of Fashion: a
Demi-God of Style who reigned supremely from her different ‘thrones’ of power
for five decades and single-handedly changed the way women dressed. You may think that a brash statement but it
is totally befitting of this large-than-life style maverick whose influence at
the helm of both Harpers and Vogue was matched by her outlandish statements and
opinions. To Ms. Vreeland, everything
was black and white: there was no grey.
This wonderful tribute documentary by Lisa Immordino Vreeland (the wife of
her grandson) pieces together some of the parts of her life. I add some of the parts because besides from the 'big jobs' that she was renowned for, the movie uncovered a wealth of
facts about her life that are totally surprising and that she barely touched
on. There are far too many to list here
but Ms. Vreeland claims to have gone shooting with Buffalo Bill (‘marvelous
fella’) in the Rockies when she was a kid; danced with the Tiller Girls (the
UK’s Rockettes) in the 1930’s; sold Wallis Simpson some couture lingerie for a
weekend with the King; waved to Lindbergh as he flew over her house on his
famous flight etc etc. When one of the
Vreeland son’s (now in his 80’s) added that he knew for sure that last fact
was not true as their house was not on his fight path, he confessed that his
mother loved to improve her stories which he simply called ‘faction’.
Born in Paris to an American
socialite and a British businessman Diana lived in Europe until the outbreak of
World War 1, but even when the family settled back in the US, Paris would
always be her first love. She married Reed Vreeland, a Banker in 1922 and they
lived in London until 1937 in which time she made her mark in British society,
although she always claims that the best thing about living in London was …
Paris …especially as she was getting her clothes fitted personally by Mlle
Chanel.
Back in New York she caught
the eye of legendary magazine editor Carmel Snow who offered her the job of
writing what turned out to be an outrageous column called ‘Why Don't You’…
imposing her own somewhat outlandish take on fashion on the hapless readers of
Harpers.
Her life then really took off
… she met Richard Avedon who she worked with for the next 40 years, and he was
just one of the many fashion heavyweights that she collaborated with over the
next five decades. As evidenced in
detail by the film, the work that she produced there as Editor, and then in the
top seat at Vogue was outstandingly wonderful.
She threw the rule book out of the window on every single aspect of
doing fashion spreads and the pages of her magazines were crammed full of
stunning photography shot in exotic places which were simply beautiful works of art.
More importantly what the
movie so accurately portrays is that these were not just pictures of clothes
but real visionary concepts that placed fashion in context with the remarkable
world that she wanted people to relish and enjoy.
They were extravagant pieces
and having no interest in keeping an eye on the bottom line or appeasing
advertisers (like the Ms. Wintour of today's world does to the detriment of
magazines!) cost Ms. Vreeland her job at Vogue.
Bereft at 70 years old and totally unwilling to even think about
retiring she leapt at the chance the Metropolitan Museum offered to run the Costume Institute. The amazing success
she achieved there over her years at the helm is well documented and dealt with
in the film, but what I really enjoyed were the behind the scenes stories like how
she commissioned a hapless assistant to make a pompadour wig with a frigate
in it and demanded it 'bigger and bigger'.
Her sons found her distant,
fashion industry notables (such as Oscar De la Renta, Calvin Klein, Manolo Blahnik) adored and respected her, and her staff feared her. She was in every sense of the word a real
diva and a fashion icon and her legacy is how she made people think outside of
the box in terms of style and how she always invested her joie de vivre in it
at all times.
Bruce Weber had attempted to
film a memoir on Diana V before, and now that Lisa Immordino Vreeland has succeeded at last, and so brilliantly, anybody with the tiniest inkling for style should be indebted to her. My only regret is that I wish I could see all
the material that never made the final cut as I am sure there are a whole wealth
of more hilarious anecdotes and eccentric quotes.
P.S. In the 1995 film 'To Wong Foo, Thanks for Everything! Julie Newmar', drag queen Vida Boheme (Patrick Swayze) gives a
copy of Vreeland's autobiography to a thrift-store clerk and tells him to
"commit sections to memory." Later, the clerk quotes a passage that
reads "That season we were loaded with pizazz. Earrings of fuchsia and
peach. Mind you, peach. And hats. Hats, Hats, Hats, for career girls. How I
adored Paris."
★★★★★★★★★★